Triple colour pillar candles are a wonderful way to accent your décor. Choose from complimentary colours, contrasting colours, or simply graduate the shade of a single colour. They're very easy to make, and really brighten up a home, or make the perfect gift!
Polycarbonate Pillar Mould (60x155mm)
Wick (ST 21/12)(LX16)
Dye - of your choice.
Mould Seal - Blu tack, mould seal etc
400g Paraffin pillar wax
Heat source (Hob, hotplate etc)
1 smaller jug
Container/tray with high lip
Mould release/Silicone spray (optional)
Half fill the saucepan and place on the heat, bring the water temperature up to boiling and then lower to a light simmer.
Place in the melting pot and stand in the saucepan of water.
Whilst the wax is melting, prepare the mould.
Preparing the mould:
Spray the mould with a small amount of silicone spray if you are using it. Thread the wick through the wick hole in the centre of the mould. Keep feeding it through until you have about 2cm poking out the other end of the mould.
Trim the wick to about 4cm higher than the wick hole.
Bend the wick at right-angels, and place a good sized bob of blu tack, or mould seal over both the wick and the wick hole. Press firmly over the hole and smooth out the edges toward the sides of the mould. You really don't want to scrimp on this stage or it'll end in tears! Flatten out another piece of blu tack, mould seal and place over the first piece. Repeat the smoothing out toward the edge of the mould.
Turn the mould over and support the wick in a centred position, using a wick centring tool, wick pin or even cocktail sticks - it does need to be secured under slight tension. Stand the mould upright in the tray to catch any leaking wax -just in case....
Now you mould is prepared, check the progress of the wax. Once the wax is fully melted pop one of the smaller jugs on the scales. Zero the scales so you aren't including the weight of the jug when you measure out the wax.
Different Colours - Method
1. Pour 200g of wax into the jug. This will be your top layer and we made it the lightest shade. Add a very small amount of the dye to the wax and stir until the dye has dissolved and fully blended. Test the colour on a cool white saucer. If the colour is too pale, add a little more dye. Once you are happy with the shade, pour a little into the mould. Check that the wick hole is sealed properly. If no wax leaks out of the wick hole, continue pouring the wax. Reserve a small amount to 'top-up'.
2. Leave the first layer to harden. If you want crisp, distinct separation lines, allow the wax to harden for a good hour and a half. The mould should feel very slightly warm, but only just. You will see that the wax has contracted as its cooled, leaving a big 'well' in the centre. Re-melt the wax you reserved from this layer and top the candle up so that the surface is level, but only go as far as the top of the sides of the first pour. Leave the candle to harden. For crisp lines, leave the second pour to cool right down, if you like slightly 'fuzzy' lines between colours, pour the next layer when the wax has formed a skin, but is still slightly warm. Clean the jug with paper towel whilst the wax is still liquid.
3. Whilst the second pour is cooling, re-melt the wax in the large melting pot. Once it has melted, measure 90g into the small jug. Add the dye and keep checking the colour until you have reached the second shade you want. We made this layer slightly darker.
To help the second layer adhere to the first, poke some holes around the wick, this will allow the hot wax to penetrate the cooler wax and 'key' them together. Pour the second shade and leave to cool. Clean out your jug whilst the wax is still liquid.
Whilst the middle layer is cooling, re-melt the remaining wax in the large jug and add more dye. Check the colour regularly. Once you have achieved the shade you want for the base layer, put to one side.
4. Once the middle layer of the candle has cooled, poke holes around the wick and pour the final layer, holding back some wax to 'top-up'.
Allow the candle the candle to cool until the mould is just slightly warm to the touch, top up until the surface is level and leave to harden overnight.
5. Once the candle is fully cooled and hardened, remove the mould seal from around the wick hole. Gently flex the mould as much as you can (you sometimes hear a 'crack' as the vacuum breaks), then using the wick, pull the candle free of the mould. If the candle is being a bit stubborn, pop it in the freezer for half and hour. This should help the wax contract a little more, making it easier to get out of the mould.
6. Once the candle is out of the mould, trim the base wick level with the base and the top wick to about 1cm. Stand the candle upright on a suitable holder and light!
Triple Tone Candles
If you are making a candle that is just 3 tones of the same shade, add a very small amount of dye initially. Once you have the pale shade, pour into the mould as high as you want the 1st band of colour to go. Follow the steps for the 3 colour candle, but simply add more of the dye to achieve a darker shade for the middle band, and then more again to achieve the dark base colour.
For a truely professional finish, the base needs to be levelled. To do this, use a metal baking sheet lined with foil (or an old frying pan) over a very low heat, holding the candle a right angles to the tray, press the base of the candle onto the baking sheet and move in circles until the excess wax has melted leaving a nice smooth base.